Belize: arrival take 3

After various diversions, back to a bit of travel …

Sitting on the plane in Houston as a downpour starts, pilot comes on with the announcement that the luggage cannot be loaded due to the workers not allowed on the tarmac during a lightning storm – confirmed by a crack of lightning – in fact, he wants us off the plane because the “tail sits way high”. So, the full complement of passengers disembark and scurry to their phones and tablets.

For me, surprisingly, I take this calmly … after all, I am heading to Belize where my friend D and W have their rental cabana waiting for me. Send a quick email to D as he has made my onward arrangements and post something to Fb which W responds to with good thoughts and D responds that he has it in hand and Tropic Air (my onward connection) is used to these sort of things so I put in the hour calmly till reboarding … delayed almost 15 minutes by a couple who had wandered off. Sent D an email saying about an hour delay that never went and then settled in for what was over an hour on the ground in the line- up for takeoff as, the pilot told us, there was considerable discussion with the tower about the track of the storm being our route. Eventually up, up and away. (later found out that the storm had spawned suspected tornados and 5 were killed in the southern states)

Having headed out in freezing rain and slushy snow to the airport where Sahib dropped me off and transitted Toronto where it was still winter and, although cold, it was sunny and clear, the last place I had expected a delay was Houston! After overnighting in Houston at a modest but clean motel, I had arrived early at the airport – last year it was a zoo at the airport and I got through just in time for my flight – and whizzed through security – gotta love that “TSA approved” slash on my boarding card, no computer or liquids to pull out or put back although the Birkies had to come off – and had lots of time to get breakfast and pick up a sandwich to eat at lunchtime on the plane.

Arrival in Belize was smooth and I was quickly and efficiently through Immigration, picked up my bag and went quickly to the Tropic air counter where they took a bite out of my credit card and put me on the next Placencia flight. As usual with Tropic, there were last minute destination changes and schedule changes but the flight left about on time with one passenger to Dandriga and 13 to Placentia. Given only a small plane, there is no copilot so a full load means one passenger gets to sit in the copilot’s seat. I took her photo for her. After the quick stop in Dandriga we arrived in Placentia where I was met by W2 and did whirlwind of the grocery store, list in hand, and the only veg stand that was open due to the holiday. Then to the dock where A loaded the boat with my various purchases to last three weeks and then we were off, the warm breeze blowing through my hair, for the ride to my favourite beach in the world along the coast and through the mangrove channels. At one point we startled a night heron … a beautiful sight as it flew off into the sunny sky over the clear turquoise water.

 

Finally, just before sunset, we pulled up to the dock where D and W greeted me with hugs, although their daughter S was not too sure about me, and W and the wheelbarrow got my stuff to the cabana in time to find out W had thoughtfully put a couple bottles of beer in the fridge to cool for me. After 2 days of travel, I changed into new, comfy clothes, grabbed a beer and joined them for sundowners on the dock: one of the best parts of the day here.

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A week has passed quickly. The first few days were extremely hot and humid: a walk on the beach early morning and late afternoon left me dripping sweat (sorry, Grandma, that was sweat, not perspiration).

There seems to be a lone Lesser Egret that considers the end of the beach to be its personal fishing hole in the morning and he greets me by flying off as I approach. On arrival back at the cabana, I often see a Greater Egret in the trees behind and I got a great shot of him/her sitting and stretching perched at the top of a tree.

After the heat and humidity of the first few days, a north wind has blown in bringing much cooler temperatures and rain or drizzle. This is absolutely restorative allowing for a good night’s sleep in the gentle breeze that wafts through the cabana at night. The cabana, rather than windows, has screened louvres which work very well. I close the top half of some windows to keep the early morning sun out but leaving the lower ones open allows the cooling night breeze through even when it is hot and humid. There is also an excellent fan which is not needed when it is cool – just as well as I want to conserve the electricity when it is not sunny as everything here is completely solar powered and off the grid.

With the cool, some of the smaller birds are back chirping in the trees and I saw a Black Throated Shrike-Tanager the other day and this morning an immature Yellow-Bellied Sapsucker.

The water, too, has its denizens: on the dock the other evening a pod of manatees were drifting about 50 yards away and popping their snouts out every once in a while. I have also, on my walks seen a couple of flying fish. No star fish seen yet but I just about stepped on a manta ray sunning itself at the edge of the surf – as I became aware of him, he flapped his sides, opened his eyes wide and gave a malevolent stare – he did not move away until he had seen me walk up on the shore and go around him. Then he quietly slid back into the water and left. Yesterday’s beach walk also saw me find a complete, dark olive snail shell (no occupant) about two inches across.

Coming out in the drizzle this morning, half a dozen pelicans were standing sadly with wings outspread on the dock trying to get a bit dry – perhaps too soggy to fly? Not as many of them as in years past but a few are patrolling the shore and diving at breakneck speed into the water to catch their dinner. Saw one during a bit of heavy wind just taking off, flying a few feet, dipping down and catching fish that must have been on the surface: not much effort required.

Reading a few good books and feeling the stresses and strains of civilization ooze out of my pores and blow away. My watch graces the table and I move with the sun, waking when I feel, usually after 8 or 9 hours solid sleep and enjoying the rest. Yesterday morning there were flights of large orange-brown dragonflies swarming the cabana. Too fast to catch a picture of them, though.

I hear a shrike now and will head out to see if I can see him …

 

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